Dining Information

Finding somewhere to eat in Puerto Vallarta is no problem - tourist restaurants offering cocktails by candlelight abound - but eating cheaply is somewhat harder. As usual, the market - on the north bank of the river by the upper bridge - has a few cheap comedors tucked away upstairs, overlooking the river, well away from the souvenir stalls that fill the rest of the building. Taco and hot-dog stands line the streets, while vendors on the beach offer freshly caught fish, roasted on sticks. For a fast-food fix, head for the glut of burger chains and pizza places on the malecón and north into the hotel zone. Gutiérrez Rizo Supermarket, at Serdán and Constitución, sells picnic supplies. South of the Río Cuale along Av Olas Altas, and particularly on Basilio Badillo between Suárez and Insurgentes, several restaurants bridge the gap between out-and-out tourist traps and plainer eating houses. Of more expensive places you can really take your pick: most offer some form of music or entertainment, or at least a good view while you eat, and almost all display their menus outside, so you know what you're letting yourself in for.

Archie's Wok, Rodríguez 130 (tel 3/222-0411). State-of-the-art Oriental cooking by the former personal chef to John Huston. Delicious, healthy food served in a serene Zen garden, expensive but well worth it. Closed Sun and all of Sept.

Café de Olla, Basilio Badillo 168 at Olas Altas. Good traditional Mexican food delivered by cheerful, attentive waiters. Always popular. Closed Tues.

Casa de los Hotcakes, Basilio Badillo 289. Marquee-like affair serving good pancakes, waffles and blintzes to a tourist crowd. Open 8am-2pm.

El Palomar de los Gonzáles, Aguacate 425 (tel 3/222-0795). Elegant, mainly Mexican and seafood restaurant, high on the hill to the south of the centre with stunning views over the city. The place to take your credit card for that romantic candlelit dinner. Evenings only, from 6pm.

El Torito, Vallarta 291 at Carranza. Bar and restaurant for sports jocks, with satellite coverage of everything from Serie A to the Superbowl. Ribs a speciality.

Freddy's Tucán, Basilio Badillo 245 at Vallarta. Very good-value Mexican and continental breakfasts, omelettes and pancakes until 2.30pm, served in the cool courtyard of the Posada de Roger hotel. European football matches are screened in the bar on evenings and weekends.

Karpathos Taverna, Gómez 110 at Playa de los Muertos (tel 3/323-1562). Airy Mediterranean-style restaurant delivering a fairly standard Greek menu. The prices aren't too bad though, and the food's great, though the service is reported to be slow.

Las Tres Huastecas, Olas Altas 444 at Rodríguez. Good-value restaurant right near Playa de los Muertos specializing in seafood and classic Mexican dishes such as chicken in mole sauce.

Page in the Sun, cnr of Olas Altas and Diéguez. A nice little café, with tables in the sun, great coffee, licuados, chess and magazines, which doubles as a used-book shop and is situated in one of the town's most popular spots.

Señor Book, Olas Altas and Gómez. A café-bookshop-bar. Exchange rates for books are two for one and there are also guidebooks and teach-yourself-Spanish ones for sale.

La Chata, Malecón 708 at Dominguez (tel 3/222-5530). Typically tasty Jaliscan food, lightly spiced. Enliven it with whatever you fancy from the stuff on the table. Live music in the evenings and happy hour all afternoon. Not cheap.

La Dolce Vita, Malecón 680 at Dominguez. Pizzas and pasta at reasonable prices. Extremely popular.

Le Bistro Jazz Café, Isla Río Cuale, just east of Insurgentes (tel 3/222-0283). Sophisticated, predominantly seafood dining in classical surroundings or alfresco, soothed by cool jazz. On the expensive side but a great place to wind down. Open from 9am for breakfast, too. Closed Sun.

Planeta Vegetariano, Iturbide 270 at Hidalgo (tel 3/222-3073). All-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet with a choice of main courses, salads, soup, dessert and a soft drink. The walls are painted with fantastic frescoes, the food is reasonably priced and deliciously spiced - good for veggies and meat-eaters alike. Closed Sun.

Trios, Guerrero 264 (tel 3/222-2196). Top-quality Mediterranean cuisine prepared by two German chefs with Michelin credentials and served in an exquisite dining room filled with original art and hanging plants. A fabulous treat if you can afford the prices.